Monday, August 24, 2009

The brain shuts off when it hears the ocean


Aug 17, 2009
Little Corn, Nicaragua

This is not the first time this has happened. My brain hear the ocean and it automatically shuts off. All critical thinking stops. I am on a Caribbean island and the type A personality has meet its kryptonite. All I want to do is not move, read and stare at the ocean. I guess I don't need to be exhausted in order to stop.

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I had to visit the doctor here on Little Corn. I needed some antibiotics. I have been out of the loop as to major news events for the last 7 weeks now. Every now and again, I get to browse through the New York Times headlines so at least I have some idea as to what is going on in the world, even if I don't get to read anything in depth. I know there is a health care debate going on in the US and I am very interested as I am one of the millions who are uninsured. This Caribbean island is POOR. The locals are living in one room shacks here on this island. But a visit to the doctor is FREE, getting antibiotics is FREE. Not just for the locals, but even for gringos like me. WTF? How is this possible for a nation like Nicaragua but it is IMPOSSIBLE to get any basic health care like this in a nation such as the US?

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Chicken Bus Mystery


Aug 16, 2009
In transit to Managua for the Corn Islands, Nicaragua

Today I need to take a bus from San Juan del Sur to Rivas then onto another bus for Managua where I will get on a flight to the Corn Islands. The bus from Rivas to Managua breaks down before we are even at Granada (this is my second broken down bus on this trip). If I didn't have a flight to catch today, I wouldn't stress about it and would just wait until either the bus is fixed or... but today, time matters. So we grab our packs and hail down the next bus that comes along, which happens to be headed for Managua. The guy who collects the money gets off the second bus and around up nearly everyone who were on the broken down bus (both bus were full prior to this point) and attempts to shove everyone into one bus. OH MY GOD. I did not think a bus could hold this many people. There are 5 guys hanging off the back of the bus, as in, they are not actually inside the bus, and as we stop along the way, more people tries to get on.

The guy some how still manages to collect money from the right people who have not paid their fare.. how does he know who to collect money from when you can't even see the front of the bus? I thought we would have to pay again seeing that we are on a different bus now. But, no, we didn't have to because we have already paid for the broken down bus. Which then brings about the question, are the chicken buses in Nicaragua private enterprise like they are in Guatemala? If all chicken buses are private enterprises in Central America, which I assumed they are, its AMAZING to me that they manage to arrive and depart as promptly as they do.


If the chicken buses are not privately owned and operated then how does the fare collection work? The guy who collects the money sometimes gets off when the bus stops at a certain town, with the money, and another guy gets on and he starts to collect money from the new passengers. All of this happens very seamlessly with no time to hand off the fare collected by one guy to the next. What is going on and how does the system work?

Further more, all of these chicken buses in Central America were once yellow school bus carting children around in the US, how does it get down to Central America? Are they driven down? Are they imported in large quantities? Or does someone who wants to get into the chicken bus business saves up enough money and goes to the US, buys an old school bus and then drive it down himself?

I know this seems like a lot of question about the chicken bus but I can't help but be curious and fascinated by how the whole thing works. If you know anything about it, will you please enlighten me?

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We are but dust walking...


Aug 13, 2009
Miraflora, Nicaragua

*This entry is being posted out of sync with linear time....

A bus ride from leon to estlie, a former strong hold for contras and sandinistas but only to be disappointed by how boring the town really is and how there is not much at all that echoes the sense of revolution. I guess I was somewhat serious when I said that I be doing a tour of leftist revolutionaries. I wonder what it is about revolution that really draws me in? Maybe its because they wish for something better, maybe because they stand for change and they fight for the little people?!

Another nearly 2 hour bus ride out to the reserva miraflora the next morning. Chicken bus packed to the rim, just when you think that they can't fit anymore onto the bus, they squeeze a little tighter and another comes on board. The road out to the reserva is a dirt road with rocks and GIANT pot holes filled with rain water. We get dropped off at what I assume is the start of the reserve and we attempt to trek 2km through mud to get to the place where we are supposed to stay. About a km in, we see this finca that I had seen a flyer for in town, we inquire about prices and etc, one finca is just as good as another, why trek another km with packs through mud? We get ourselves into this really cute finca, run by a German wife, a Nicaraguan husband, their baby nero and two fantastic dogs, fiona and snoopy. I was rather smitten with the dogs and really wanted to take one of them home with me.

There are 6 americans here already at the finca. All from northern Cali and here to do some volunteer work for a NGO. 3 of them are in their 60's, old hippies who have found god but are still a bit crunchy and still have a lust for the road. The other 3 are this one guy Mike's daughter, her fiancée and his nephew who has never been outside of California before. They are nice, they are friendly, we make friends and have a nice chat. All the while, I can't help but wonder how did I end up on a finca in nicaragua with a bunch of americans. Then again, 3 nights later, I am sitting lake side drinking rum and coke with a room full of brits.

We opt to ride horses through the reserva. We originally had wanted to trek, but my hiking shoes are nearly dead, tread less and not doing me much good on slippery trails. With the rock filled dirt road and giant water filled pot hole, a horse seems like a much better idea. Ernesto tries to find two more horses for us and in the meantime, we gulf down another plate of rice and beans for breakfast.

8 gringos and 1 guide sets off on horseback. I some how end up with the lead horse, she doesn't like it when there are other horses in front of her and if she sees another approaching, she will pick up pace and get ahead of them. Ian is on a horse that does not like to walk next to other horses, it seems to have trouble with personal space. Several different occasions something would set my horse off, whether because another has come from behind at a full gallop or she felt her position as the lead horse is threatened, she would break out into a full run and I would dig my heels in and hold on for dear life.

The ride through the reserva is beautiful. Gradual green hills dotted with small farms sets in between mountain ranges, just at the height of the clouds. There is green green and more green, all in different shades and textures. We finally get to a waterfall, tie up our horses and sit by the water for a bit. I have been under the weather since El Salvador. Today, I feel like shit. After the waterfall, the guide gave me a different horse for the ride back. This new horse does not like to have its reign pulled at all. You could barley touch reigns as it freaks out when you do. At first she just wanted to walk very very slowly. Feeling like death warmed over by this point, I am rather fine with just sitting on a horse instead of doing any kind of riding. In the meantime, the nephew gets thrown off the horse I was on previously and I am slightly glad that I am not on her anymore. About half way home, my horse freaks out and starts into a full gallop. Can't pull the reigns as that makes her even more crazy, verbal commands don't work, hanging on for dear life is the only thing to do. I can't sit up and ride with her cause there is nothing to hold on to, I would only want to pull on the reigns at least a little if I were to sit up. So now I am leaning closer and closer down to her neck and all of sudden she jerks her head back and head butts me. Once, twice, FUCK! I some how get her to stop running and I get the fuck off of this crazy horse. My face is a little bashed up and I have cut my lip open. I hand the reigns back to the guide and I start my walk home. Enough riding for one day. Ian runs his horse back to the finca and walks back down to meet me. As we both make our way back to the finca, the guide tells us that ian's horse, the one with the personal space issue is crazy as well that is why they named it Satan.

The rest of the afternoon was spent cuddle up in a hammock. Me with as much clothes as I can manage to put on, dozing in the hammock while Ian plows his way through war and peace.

Night comes and we stand out in the middle of the field and look up. There are so many stars out, there are no city lights, there are nothing for miles around. The last time I had seen a sky with as many stars, I was 100KM from MT Everest in a no name town with someone who I thought I was going to marry. 18 months later, I am in Nicaragua, wrapped up in another man's arms and once again amazed at the beauty that I am being offered, amazed at the twists and turns life has in store for us all. The fire flies are out. They blink on and off through out the finca and it is as if we are surrounded by stars above and below. We maybe but dust walking but do you think that we were able to appreciate this much beauty when we were stars?

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Sierra Norte Trek


July 14, 2009
Sierra Norte, Oaxaca Mexico

*This post is being posted out of sync with linear time...

I take a bus into sierra norte to a town called cuajimoloyas at elevation 3180m. I am surprised by the cold as the temp just drop at least 15 degrees from Oaxaca. I throw on another tank top, a t-shirt and zips my light water proof shell tight. I did not pack very well for this journey, I packed for the tropics and heat and where I am headed will be cold. My trekking partner is a 26 year old french Canadian idealist named felix who came to mexico to monitor the election for the OAS. We set off around 10:30 with our local guide (whose name I didn't catch). It is so beautiful here, so lush, so green, the sky so blue. Never in my life would I think that this is what Mexico looks like. There are green meadows with wildflowers everywhere, alpine trees and streams. We stay more or less at this altitude for the next couple of hours. Our guide tells us that there are 8 remote zapotec villages here and they are self sustaining as they grow everything they need. they have collectively pooled their resources and share the revenue from the logging and eco-tourism program. Each person has to do something to contribute and so some volunteer as guides and other work once in a while in logging and etc. They are not paid individually, the money is shared by all the villages.

Our guide walks us by this three pools (about 15 feet in diameter each) and tells us that his brother is farming some kind of fish in there, using the water from the near by stream. I ask what the sling shot hanging on the fence is for? To shoot at the hawks that come for the fish.

We reach a look out point and peer into the valley down below, there is a guy waiting for us, we are switching guides. Our new guide's name is Salvador. He points to the base of the valley and tells us that is where he lives and where we will have lunch. Half way up the opposite side of the mountain is a town called Latuvi and that is where we will spend the night.

We now start our descend, its steep and slippery but we are in the middle of alpines and I just couldn't be happier. By 3 we make it to Salvador's house where felix and I watch them catch fish out of their ponds for us for lunch. Meanwhile, felix and I fall asleep on the table waiting for lunch. This is me and felix's first fish here in mexico, a nice change from the non-stop parade of meat.

We ask salvador how much more do we have to go and he looks at me and says maybe an hour. We set off and starts climbing up. Felix and I covered the ascend to 2400m in 35 min. I don't know the altitude of salvador's house but its a bit ways down. I haven't had any trouble all these days here in the higher elevation but I could really feel it on the ascend. As we climb, we stop at one point and salvador points out where the look out is where we meet him. Wow, we have covered quiet a bit of distance here. An elder lady w a burro carrying vegetables comes along side of us and we chat with her as we climb. She asks where we are headed tomorrow and felix tells her that he will be turning around to head south while I continue north. She says why are you leaving your girlfriend? No, no, we are just friends.

We finally arrive and gets all the logistical details settled. Felix and I are sharing a cabin as we both only paid for a shared room. The cabin is super nice, better than any hostel I have been in.

As I write, I am swinging in a hammock watching the cloud formation change a top the mountain range, the goats are settling their unfinished business in the background as the day is about to end. I could not be happier.

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We watch the sunset, share a great meal made for us by the lady running the store. We share a beer and a smoke and talk about the 14km that we covered today. Its been a great day, its been fucking perfect!

Oh, before I forget, sierra norte does not observe day light savings, so there was much discussion as to when we will head out tomorrow, 8am Oaxaca time? 8am sierra norte time? What the hell? I don't understand!

Day 2, I have another 14km ahead of me and I need to cover that distance by mid day as I have a bus tonight. We poke our heads out of our room and everything is shrouded in white. We are in midst of clouds and its beautiful. Another great meal, another smoke, a handful of advil, before felix heads south and I north.

My guide is salvador again and he really likes to stop to tell you about the local flora and faunas. Both days we see what is left of where the villages used to be as they shift and relocate with the moving river. I think salvador really enjoys being a guide. The scenery is different today, different vegetation and a different vibe.

For part of the trek we are down by the river and parts of it we are along the side of the mountains. Its up and down all 14kms. Every now and the, we stop and my guide points to where we are headed or to where we have been. Its quiet a bit of mountain range I have trekked. Felix and I both agree that there is no way we could have done is by ourselves as the trails are poorly marked. I switch guides again and he is young and not very talkative.

I arrive at my final village Amatlan just before 1pm, 14km in 4 hours, not too bad. Now I am just waiting for a collectivio so I can get to a bigger town where I can then find my way back to Oaxaca.

I could easily do another day of this, but at last, there is a bus with my name on it tonight. So I must leave this very simple life, this very amazing scenery, walk out of the woods and reclaim my camera, film and the best of my belongings and keep heading south.

*PS. No jaguar sightings, so sad...

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Thursday, August 13, 2009

This is not our chicken!


Aug 12, 2009
Masaya, Nicaragua

I take the first bus out from Lago de Apoyo to the market at Masaya. It is chaos as always. A beautiful chaos today and I am super excited, albeit exhausted.

There are there two live chicken/poultry vendors next to each other. One is separated from the other by a few stools and nothing more. I watch two chickens, tied to each other at the feet, struggle and escape the box that they were in. They attempt to wonder, or at least, one of them tries while the other doesn't understand that its in a 3 legged race. A man from the next "shop" comes over, sees the escaped chickens, picks them up and hands them to his wife, giving her a hard time about not keeping a better eye on the poultry. She has one look and tells him that those are not their chicken and hands them back to her neighbor.
Charlie Grosso
www.charliegrosso.com
310-592-0895

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Ice Cream, Parque Central and Cashew Selling Boy


Aug 11, 2009

Granada, Nicaragua



We are sitting in Parque Central having an ice cream as it is unbearably hot and there is still a little bit of time before our shuttle leaves for Lago de Apoyo. A boy selling bags of cashews comes by and sits down next to us on the bench. Would we like some nuts? No thanks. He stays and kinda hangs out. He takes our ice cream wrappers and runs them to th trash can. He wears his baseball cap on a slant to indicate that he's got a bit of street in him, that he is cool. He at first mimics us and kinda makes fun of us, then he chats with us while keeping an eye on all the girls that walks by. He is 10 years old. He has been selling nuts on the street for 5 years now. He doesn't go to school because he can't afford to. He asks us for some of our water and we hand him the bottle. He takes a drink and tries to hand it back. We indicate that he can keep the bottle. He down the half liter that is left in one gulp and chucks the bottle aside (not in the trash but he walked our ice cream wrappers to the trash can). We wish him well and walk away. What can we do? Buying a bag a over priced nuts will not ensure a better life for him, maybe sharing our water and a bit of our time is all we can ever do.



*picture to come

Charlie Grosso

www.charliegrosso.com

310-592-0895

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Saturday, August 8, 2009

Folklores and Gruesome Torture


Aug 8, 2009

Leon, Nicaragua

Elevation 110m



I attempted a walking tour of Leon yesterday as per LP's recommendation. I have never tried one before as I usually just cherry pick all the things I want to see and then skip the rest. I can't say that the walking tour was a major success seeing that I only finished half of it but one of the museums it recommended as part of the tour was rather fabulous.



Museo de Leyendas y Mitos was a garrison during the civil war and it is full of life size papier-mache figures from Leonese history and legend. All set in contrast with simple deceptions of methods of torture on the wall by the National Guards (US trained and supported). The volunteer guide takes you through room by room and explains the local legend and folklores to you, then he easily shifts gear and tells you about methods of torture performed. It was quiet a surreal experience.



On top of it all, the papier-mache figures and other objects that makes up the display is so comical, simple, hence FABALOUS, that I can't help but be a little in love with it all. We visit major museums and see these carefully curated art, objects of antiquity, dioramas, and then all of sudden we are in Leon, looking at a museum comprised of strange papier-mache figures and halloween decorations. Then again, why should this be any less of a museum as the Museum of Natural History in say NYC? Are we all not simply trying to tell our story, our history, our folklores in whichever way we can?

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Thursday, August 6, 2009

Guide Books, Men with Guns and Women Guerrillas

Aug 6, 2009
San Salvador, El Salvador to Leon, Nicaragua

I have spent the last couple of day at the beaches of El Salvador where the surf is supposed to be amazing. I don't know what I was thinking but wanting to learn how to surf at a place with world class point breaks is really not a good idea.

All fellow travelers can a test to the importance of a guide book (the bible as some call it) as part of one's journey. It determines where you go, where you stay and how to get from town A to B. Now there are times in which the guide books are right on with the advice given and you can't imagine not following it, then there are times where you do a double take and wonder if the authors were even in the country described at all.

There is this little town called Ataco in El Salvador, on the Route de Flores, where the book described it as having a strong indigenous influence and is what Antigua, Guatemala was like before tourism hit. We went there one day. Let's just say that the guide book authors needed a way to describe the town and that was the best BS they could come up with. One down for LP guide for El Salvador.

After a few days at the beach, 4 of us heads into San Salvador so we can all head out to our next destination via Tica Bus. The guide book lists 2 departure points for the Tica Bus, one of which is said to have a hotel as part of it, making it convent for early morning departures. Sounds perfect as our bus to Nicaragua leaves at 5am. When the cab pulls up to the hotel, there are men with guns standing outside of it and it is clear that we are in a very sketchy part of town, I begin to doubt my El Salvador guide book for the second time. There have been plenty of men with guns all through Mexico and Central America, for the most part they have made me feel slightly safer. However, given the looks of part of town we are in, and then there are men with guns outside guarding the hotel/bus stop?! Ok, don't feel safe at all. Time to re consult the book and see what other options there are. Oh look, there is another terminal listed in a better part of town, let's go there. Oh look, there is a hotel attached to it as well, why the hell didn't the guide book tell me about this option? Tica bus terminal in city center is only for those who wish to be robbed in order to have a complete Central America experience while Tica bus terminal in Zona Rosa is for those who would like to sleep in a clean bed with a hot shower.

In one of the "Boxed Text" for my guide book, it talks about women guerrilla fighters as part of the FMLN. Women made up over 40% of the guerrilla fighters and after the end of the civil war some did not want to re-enter into the traditional role of women and home maker. The hostel we stayed at in Playa El Sunzal is run by a women in her 40's. She has two small children, one with some sort of developmental problem. I don't know if there is a husband as we did not see anyone else in the three days that we were there. She is always nice, always pleasant, never in your face or invading your space, yet when it came to time to tally our tab, it is immediately clear that she has keep an eye on you this entire time. Her ledger is impeccable and charged us down to the last cent for everything we had to eat, drink, used and slept in. I was impressed to say the least. This woman manages to run a 5 room hostel and raise two children with such efficiency that I wondered if she was once a guerrilla fighter or was raised by one.

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Monday, August 3, 2009

Condition of Absorption

Aug 3, 2009
Juayua, El Salvador

This is the first morning since June 30th have I had the chance to read the paper with coffee. Some rituals just feel so good and so right.

I come across the following piece in today's New York Times.

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Averted Vision
By Tim KreiderIn
1996 I rode the circus train to Mexico City where I lived for a month, pretending to be someone's husband. (Don't even ask.) I remember my time there as we remember most of our travels — vivid and thrilling, everything new and strange. My ex-fake-wife Carolyn and I often reminisce nostalgically about our honeymoon there: ordering un balde hielo from room service to cool our Coronas every afternoon, the black-velvet painting of the devil on the toilet that she made me buy, our shared hilarious terror of kidnapping and murder, the giant pork rind I wrangled through customs. Which is funny, since, if I think back honestly, while I was actually there I did not feel "happy." In fact, as mi esposa did not hesitate to point out to me at the time, I griped incessantly about the noise and stink of the city — the car horns playing shrill, uptempo versions of the theme from "The Godfather" or "La Cucaracha" every second, the noxious mix of diesel fumes and urine, the air so filthy we'd been there a week before I learned we had a view of the mountains.

I was similarly miserable throughout the happiest summer I ever spent in New York City. I was recovering from an affair that had ended badly, and during my convalescence I was subletting a cool, airy apartment a block from Tompkins Square Park, with a kitchen window that looked out on a community garden. A theater troupe was rehearsing a production of "The Tempest" out there, and I got used to the warped rattling crash of sheet-metal thunder in the evenings. I happened to catch "The Passion of St. Joan of Arc" on cable for the first time late one night, a film I knew nothing about — it was grotesque and beautiful, astonishing. One of the happiest memories of my life is of sitting on top of the little knoll in the park with my friend Ellen, eating a sweet Hawaiian pizza and waiting to see what movie would play on the outdoor screen that was being inflated in front of us. (It turned out to be "Raiders of the Lost Ark.") Even though this whole time I was preoccupied with thoughts of the woman I'd lost and torturing myself with jealousy and insane fantasies of vengeance, in retrospect it's obvious now that the main thing I was doing that summer was falling in love.

I wonder, sometimes, whether it is a perversity peculiar to my own mind or just the common lot of humanity to experience happiness mainly in retrospect. I have of course considered the theory that I am an idiot who fails to appreciate anything when he actually has it and only loves what he's lost. Or perhaps this is all just what Michael Chabon called "the ruinous work of nostalgia, which obliterates the past." But I think I recall that summer with such clarity and affection for much the same reason that I remember my month in Mexico City so fondly. The fresh heartbreak was, in a sense, like being in a foreign country; everything seemed alien, brilliant and glinting. It was as if I'd been flayed, so that even the air hurt. When you're that unhappy, any glimmer of beauty or consolation feels like running into an old friend abroad, or seeing mountaintops through smog. Maybe we mistakenly think we want "happiness," which we tend to picture in very vague, soft-focus terms, when what we really crave is the harder-edged intensity of experience.

We do each have a handful of those moments, the ones we only take out to treasure rarely, like jewels, when we looked up from our lives and realized: "I'm happy." One of the last times this happened to me, inexplicably, I was driving on Maryland's unsublime Route 40 with the window down, looking at a peeling Burger King billboard while Van Halen played on the radio. But this kind of intense and present happiness is heartbreakingly ephemeral; as soon as you notice it you dispel it, like blocking yourself from remembering a word by trying too hard to retrieve it. And our attempts to contrive this feeling through any kind of replicable method — with drinking or drugs or sexual seduction, buying new stuff, listening to the same old songs that reliably give us shivers — never quite recapture the spontaneous, profligate joy of the real thing. In other words be advised that Burger King billboards and Van Halen are not a sure-fire combination, any more than are scotch and cigars.

I didn't always enjoy being a cartoonist. During the 12 years of my career, if I can call it that, I bored my friends and colleagues by complaining bitterly about the insulting pay, the lack of recognition, the short half-life of political cartoons as art. And yet, if I'm allowed any final accounting of my days, I may find, to my surprise, that I reckon those Fridays when I woke up without an idea in my head and only started drawing around noon, calling friends at work for emergency humor consultations, doing frantic Google image searches for "Scott McClellan" or "chacmool," eating whatever crud was in the fridge, laughing out loud at my own jokes, and somehow ended up getting a finished cartoon in by deadline, feeling like an evil genius, to have been among my best. But during the time I was actually focused on drawing — whipping out a perfect line, spontaneous but precise, or gauging the exact cant of an eyelid to evoke an expression, or immersed in the microscopic universe of cross-hatching — I wasn't conscious of feeling "happy," or of feeling anything at all. I was in the closest approximation to happiness that we can consistently achieve by any kind of deliberate effort: the condition of absorption. My senses were so integrated that, on those occasions when I had to re-draw something entirely, I often found that I would spontaneously recall the same measure of music or line of dialog I'd been listening to when I'd drawn it the first time; the memory had become inextricably encoded in the line. It is this state that rock-climbers and pinball players and libertines are all seeking: an absorption in the immediate so intense and complete that the idiot chatter of your brain shuts up for once and you temporarily lose yourself, to your relief. I suspect there is something inherently misguided and self-defeating and hopeless about any deliberate campaign to achieve happiness. Perhaps the reason we so often experience happiness only in hindsight, and that chasing it is such a fool's errand, is that happiness isn't a goal in itself but is only an aftereffect. It's the consequence of having lived in the way that we're supposed to — by which I don't mean ethically correctly so much as just consciously, fully engaged in the business of living. In this respect it resembles averted vision, a phenomena familiar to backyard astronomers whereby, in order to pick out a very faint star, you have to let your gaze drift casually to the space just next to it; if you look directly at it, it vanishes. And it's also true, come to think of it, that the only stars we ever see are not the "real" stars, those cataclysms taking place in the present, but always only the light of the untouchable past.

###

This last month of traveling has been good to me. This last month on the road has made me very happy. Whether be it caused by the "condition of absorption" or just simply that being out here has eliminated all things that was causing me pain previously, its been good. Any other time, I would agree with Mr Tim KreiderIn that our happiness is often us nostalgically reminiscing on the lights of the faded glory, but I must say my current state of being has nothing to do with that. Everyday, every morning, every cup of coffee, every smoke, every bus ride, I am happy. Let's just credit it to the "condition of absorption" so we can tone down the gloating a little. Wishing all of you the same.

Charlie Grosso

www.charliegrosso.com

310-592-0895

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Saturday, August 1, 2009

Adventures in Boarder Crossing


July 31, 2009
Antigua, Guatemala to Juayua, El Salvador

I now have a travel friend and we decided to head south into El Salvador. After a quick breakfast, after me insisting on picking up an AMAZING brownie made by JP, a bar owner in Antigua from New Orleans, we head over to get on a chicken bus for Guatemala City. This is my first chicken bus and I am sad to report that there were no chickens on this particular bus.

A bumpy hour later, we arrive at the biggest city in Central America, Guatemala city. Now, I have been told that Guatemala city is a dump and very sketchy, I have to admit that there was a part of me that thought about coming in for the day (this was pre- El Salvador) just see what kind of cluster fuck it really is. Well, let's just say that there really is no need to see it. A dirty, messy, charm less city, much like many I have been through.

A taxi to another bus terminal for another chicken bus to the boarder. The chicken bus are old yellow school bus that used to drive children to and from school in the US, after X number of years, they get retired and they get send down here in Central America. Some guy buys it, paint it multicolored, and they will cram as many passengers on to it as possible. What I am most impressed by is the guy who is in charged of the fare on a chicken bus. People come on and off all the time, including from the door that opens straight back from the bus. Sometimes people jump on through the back door while the bus is in motion. How does the ticket taker keep track of who has paid and who needs to pay is a kill beyond my imagination.

Its the raining season here in Central America, afternoon thunder storms is the norm. I have been lucky enough that it has not affected my travel much and also have managed to just duck indoors to wait out the rain. Well, the rain started here in Guatemala around 4pm, a torrential down pour. Its stops for a bit here and there, but by the time we arrive at the El Salvador boarder, it is a massive down pour. I had to tread through ankle deep water to get to the front door of immigration.

After that, its another collectivo that is supposed to take us to the bus which will take us to the biggest town in the region where we have to catch a different bus for our final destination. The collectivo passes through water that must be 6 inches deep, thank you for visiting Guatemala, welcome to El Salvador, then meters into El Salvador, the collectivo stops short. The collectivo can't go any further as there is a major land slide ahead. Boulders the size of small dining room tables are falling down the hill. The other collectivo that we need is on the other side of this mud slide. We put our packs back on and starts walking very quickly but carefully down the road, across the land slide. There is no going back into Guatemala as there is nothing at the boarder. Forward is the only choice.

We get across the mud and giant boulders, get on the collectivo, only to have it sit right by the land slide, making us nervous. Alright, back out on to the road again. It would be safer if we keep on walking than to sit in a non-moving car taking the chance that the land slide would get worst. We get further down the road and clearly there is nothing else coming this way. The collectivo has now collected enough passengers and are coming our way. Thank god!

The El Salvadorians are all super nice and we make some conversation with them about where we are from and where we are going. We get to town, find a bathroom, get 5 conflicting opinions as to if there is still a bus to Juayua and we set off to find the chicken bus station. We were told by 6 different people that it is just around the corner, well, its actually just around about 4 corners, many corners were turned before we finally find the chicken bus that we need.

Wet but excited, it took us 7 hours, 3 chicken buses, 2 collectivos, 1 taxi, 6 inch deep of rain water, a major down pour and a land slide but we have arrived at Juayua at last.

Charlie Grosso

www.charliegrosso.com

310-592-0895

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